Visiting my local horticultures’ this morning to order my
winter pansies and cyclamen I was met with a feast of colour in the shape of
chrysanthemums. Whilst we English see
these pot plants as a splash of colour in our homes or conservatories in France
they are associated with death and at this time of the year. Every year on the 1st November the Catholic
festival of La Toussaint (All Saints Day) is celebrated in
churches and graveyards across France. Officially it is the day when all the
saints recognised by the Catholic Church are honoured. The following day is Le Jour des Morts (All Soul’s Day) when people pray for
the souls of the departed. La Toussaint is frequently marked in
cemeteries by the lighting of candles and the decorating of graves with
chrysanthemums to remember loved ones who have died. There are religious services throughout
France and churches
are also especially decorated around November 1st, as many people
pay an extra visit to church services at this time
Public
life in France is generally very quiet on All Saints’ Day. Post offices, banks,
stores and other businesses are closed. Outside of tourist areas, restaurants
and cafes may also be closed for one or more days. Public transport service
schedules vary depending on where one lives and intends to travel. Churches may
be closed for visitors who do not wish to take part in the services and guided
tours may not be available.
Just
before Toussaint is Halloween (31st October) and also known as All
Hallows. Originating in America came Halloween which has become hugely popular
in France and is usually celebrated by people of all ages going to parties at
friends' homes, restaurants, bars, or clubs. The costumes themselves tend to be
traditionally "scary" - mummies, ghosts, goblins, witches, and vampires.
At the moment there are costumes,
pumpkins, hairy spiders and all sorts of weird and scary items in the shops for
people to buy for their Halloween parties.
Trick
or treating is commonplace now in France with children knocking at your door in
their costumes asking if you will trick or treat. It’s wise to say treat and have some sweets
ready to hand over. Children see this as
huge fun and should you not be able to give them a “treat” they will happily go
to the next house, whereas in England I have heard that should you say “no” you
risk your door being kicked or verbal abuse!!
In
the boulangeries you will find small cakes iced in orange and
decorated with spider’s webs and mini pumpkins.
The theme of cakes comes from medieval times when people use to bake
soul cakes and deliver them from door to door.
To
me Halloween and Toussaint means the clocks going back one hour and that winter
is truly upon us!
